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Decoy (Redfarm)


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Decoy (Redfarm)

Pookipichu | May 19, 2014 10:08 AM

Decoy is located below Redfarm and is almost an extension of its upstairs sister restaurant. Specializing in Peking duck, it complements the duck with dim sum and entrees courtesy of Joe Ng's creative Chinese cooking.

I've been a fan of Joe Ng since Chinatown Brasserie and while I'm unfortunately not a fan of Redfarm despite multiple visits, Decoy manages to produce food that is surprisingly better.

Meal starts with three pickled appetizers. Cucumbers, mango and cauliflower. They all have a bit of heat. Cucumbers have a nice snap, brine and flavor, mangos are ripe, sweet and have a citrus brine and pepper, cauliflower has chili, fermentation and crunch. All three are delicious but just a touch too sweet.

Snowpeashoot and shrimp dumplings are beautiful, thin skinned with excellent texture, the shrimp has plump firmness but yields and is not chewy or tough/overcooked.

Oxtail dumplings are crisp filled with intensely meaty filling and accompanied by black garlic sauce which further enhances the flavor. They are fried expertly and there is very little grease.

Decoy chips are fish skin fried crisp in shapes similar to shrimp chips. The skin is shatteringly crisp with satisfying crunch, addictive, delicious, without being overwhelmingly fishy. Perhaps a touch too salty.

Peking duck is generously portioned, some of it is beautifully carved. The skin is crisp, the meat is moist. One of the top Peking duck offerings in NYC, very respectable. Flavor is excellent, clean duck flavor without unnecessary gaminess. For comparison's sake, Hakkasan's duck is better (moistness, flavor, crispness of skin, presentation) but Decoy puts up a good showing and offers more meat. The pancakes are thin, beautifully made, toothsome, really well executed and the ratio of pancakes to meat is spot on. Cucumbers and scallions are nicely cut and there is evident care in preparation.

The duck comes with hot duck consomme shooters (smooth and full flavored) three condiments, hoisin, cranberry and peanut sauce. The hoisin was the favorite, and the cranberry and peanut were found to be superfluous (although the cranberry would be a whimsical addition to a Chinese Thanksgiving). The hoisin sauce is really delicious. Picked onions are a throwaway side condiment and were much too sweet.

There was an overall theme of unnecessary sweetness.

The crab and scallop fried rice was generous with crab and the flavor was excellent. The fried rice itself did not have the smoky wok char that Hakkasan fried rice can have, but it was otherwise excellent.

They do not yet have dessert offerings. Hopefully they will have a real pastry chef with some Chinese desserts. Redfarm's dessert offerings are a little sad.

Overall I felt that the food at Decoy felt fresher in thought, less forced and less trope driven than Redfarm. The execution was better at Decoy than my meals at Redfarm, the dim sum was excellent, the Peking duck respectable enough to be one of the top 2 in NYC, the condiments, and overall quality of the meal excellent.

The issues I have with Decoy are the overuse of sugar, and sometimes salt. I still have aftertaste and dehydration even after drinking much water. Secondly, the space is very dark, cavelike in an unappetizing way. I like to see my food, and being able to appreciate the visual aspect of food enhances enjoyment. The service is overwhelmed but I think they will find their feet as they've just opened. But lastly, the restaurant is extremely cramped, uncomfortably cramped. I don't mind communal tables, but Decoy seats people uncomfortably tight. If you don't like communal tables, be warned, the seating is awkward. If you're not sitting with thin people, you'll feel more crowded than a rush hour subway train, not what you want when you're spending $80-$100 a person.

Hakkasan New York,
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