If I found a really good Shanghai restaurant, I'd make a mental beeline for the yellowfish, a whole tender fish lovingly cooked in one of seven or eight ways, perhaps with a rich brown sauce with Shaoxing wine and soy. Or perhaps a juicy, succulent pork shoulder slowly simmered with soy and mushrooms. But most people go for the dumplings. Yeah, I've tried the xiao long bao, and I do appreciate the artistry, but a plate of those would fill me. I'd sooner go for the fish.
Same with Mexican. Give me an exotic, flavorful meat (such as pig feet or maybe goat rumen) gently braised in a mole just exploding with flavors I've never tasted before. But most people spurn the moles and go for the tacos. I'm not denying that the marriage of a freshly made tortilla and a perfect filling just out of the stewpot has some merit. But how can it, or bings, or yang rou bao zi, or Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles (which are awesome by the way) or dumplings compare to the finest entrees? I just don't get it. And that probably means I'm missing something. Can someone please explain?