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China Pearl Best Cafe, Chinatown, Boston

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China Pearl Best Cafe, Chinatown, Boston

Limster | Aug 7, 2005 01:30 AM

The honey-glazed Cantonese roast pork (char siew) is outstanding. A beautiful cut of pork with a generous amount of supple fat, delightfully firm and smooth, without any trace of chewiness. The honeyed glaze is beautiful, the flavour penetrating, bringing a savoury sweetness to the tender meat. I don't know if I was just lucky with the cut of meat today, will have to go back for more. If it holds up, it's significantly superior to the version at HK Eatery.

Skip the Teochew style soy sauce braised duck. The flavour's flat, mostly soy, missing key flavours like star anise. I'm sticking to the handsome version at Ho Yuen Ting; yet to see any place come close to their flavour and carving technique.

The wontons in the wonton noodle soup are fairly well made, a 50-50 blend of brilliant shrimp and fatty pork, unlike the shrimp-heavy ones at HK Eatery. Some weakness in the folds of the wrapping, the flat tail of the wontons conspiciuously absent, missing that delicious flutter as one swallows the wontons like a cloud. All in all these are good but I consider these wontons a notch below the benchmark version at HK Eatery. Thin yellow wheat noodles are al dente as expected, a subtle shrimpy flavour in the soup stock. On the whole a competent version.

Steamed egg custard was below average, light but thin on taste and a residual powdery texture in the finish. Steamed milk dessert is better, more delicate than the ones I've had at Quality Cafe and Anna's Dessert House, but also a smaller serving for the same price.

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