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Restaurants & Bars 3

New Chef at Patina

Griller141 | Aug 5, 2002 01:55 AM

Went to Patina tonight, rather reluctantly after the last few forays, which were less than spectacular (except for the one predictably spectacular aspect: the bill).
The "tomato prix fixe menu" was as unexpected as it was excellent: tomato soup (more a Gazpacho singing with vine ripened flavors);tomato risotto with deep tones of tomato stirred into a perfectly al dente rice though with a forgettable Santa Barbara Spot Prawn; competent salmon accompanied by an exquisitely intense tomato marmalade; tomato sorbet on a moistly undercooked angel food cake.
The chef's menu was not quite as good, although the John Dory was memorably moist and had the salt water tang of truly fresh fish.
Cheese selection was very extensive, well thought out and, for once, adequately ripened. (Be sure to ask for real bread, as the accompaning raisin bread obnoxiously competes with the more delicate cheeses).
Extensive wine list is no bargain but has a lot of impossible to find labels and is not totally overpriced.
The more annoying waiters seem to be gone, or at least subdued.
Chef (forgot his name - just from New York) introduced himself as being new within the past two weeks and vowed to make Patina recover it's place as the premier traditional foodie hangout in LA.
If you're willing to spend the considerable money required, at this moment this place beats the Water Grill and Chinois for the best high end food in the city.

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