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Centrico Review

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Restaurants & Bars

Centrico Review

(mp) | Oct 17, 2005 10:00 AM

Let's face it, everyone has to be in Tribeca from time to time and one can't always go to Landmarc.

Centrico deserves a try. When I was there last night, the food was well prepared, the drinks were fun without being overly frivolous, and the service was warm and attentive.

We started with three appetizers. First, the ubiquitous seared tuna. This one was served on a bed of onions, jicama, and peppers all cut into matchsticks and coupled with a sweet, respectably spicy sauce. Seared tuna may not be exactly scarce on menus these days, but this version cohered particularly well. Next was queso fundido. As a native Texan, I am unabashed in my love of this dish, and Centrico's rendition was solid. Mild white cheese, melted (amazingly, with no accompanying oil slick atop the cheese) and paired with poblano peppers and onions. The kitchen managed to excise the searing heat of the poblanos without destroying their intensely savory smokiness. The queso fundido was served with miniature corn tortillas that were pleasantly thick -- a few nanometers more so than your average corn tortilla. The last appetizer was lump crabmeat, which avoided the common, crab-flavor-destroying fallacy of aioli, on top of tostadas.

Our main course was a large portion of extremely tender short ribs, served with tortillas, diced onions and mexican oregano on the side. Excellent. The side dish of rice and beans was a little bit bland to my palate, but enjoyable with the beef nonetheless.

Overall, I was very happy with my meal and will keep Centrico in mind when I'm in Tribeca.

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