Restaurants & Bars 7


cognoscenti | Jun 8, 2005 04:18 PM

I've been going to Bouley through its incarantions for some time now. I'm very happy they have their store back. And I kind of like that David B is the dark prince of the culinary world and just deeply flawed in ways that he can't seem to conceal. I had no reservation. The food was great. However, the bread was a shadow of its former self -I have to admit I really go there for the bread. The coffee was terrible -they use inferior coffee from Puerto Rico Coffee Company which is fine if you're the local deli but not a high end resturant-I tried to tell the maitre D' about La Colombe the second last time I was there but he was having none of it -Bouley can't be perfect but it should be -If david B drank coffee -he reportedly doesn't. The tea was awful too. Does DAvid B not drink tea either? A cheap tea bag blend and imperfectly brewed. Notwithstanding the huge third world and hyper staffed overlay, the place was - well and I hate to say it b/c Im loyal to the food - a little dusty and dirty. A towel basket in the women's bathroom had a whole flora thing of it's own -reminding me of the way old people clean their bathrooms -all very tidy and all but thick with a kind of gelatinous dust that they can't see. The lampshades and bases on nearly every table were equally dusty and indeed kind of dirty. Back to the third world thing. I'd surmise that David B. has been spening time in Marakesh. The place is redundant with staff, almost falling over each other with the kind of serving skills you'd get at a resort hotel in Moroocco or Mexico where they're trying to be all formal or fancy but they just don't know what side you serve on/clear from etc. All a little Basil Fawlty. And the outfits complete the whole third world motif. A very ugly black and wine combination that was much favored by inner city thugs in Ireland and England in the mid eighties as a kind of dress up uniform albeit with white socks and strangely (I've noticed this) seems to have found its way to third world restaurants and hotels and settled in for the long haul. It always looks greasy to me. Not the kind of choreographed thing you get at Alain ducasse. Yet, the food was good.

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