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Blue Hill -- Bobolink Cheese Dinner


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Blue Hill -- Bobolink Cheese Dinner

cabrales | Jan 26, 2004 02:43 PM

I attended Blue Hill's one-evening Bobolink cheese-themed dinner :)

Jonathan White from Bobolink, which offers raw-milk cheeses from grass-fed cows, was on hand to explain the various cheeses presented. Mike and Dan were both in the kitchen, as was presumably Juan Cuevas, formerly Delouvrier's right-hand man at ex-Lespinasse.

Amuses were (1) testa with a little bit of Falling Pyramid cheese, carrot julienne, cumin and papadom, and (2) a butternut squash ravioli with butternut jus, augmented in sweetness by a bit of honey.

-- Bruscetta-based open-based sandwich with wild mushrooms, quail eggs, Bobolink cheddar. This was my favorite dish of the evening! It was almost like a cross between a millefeuille stacked with different items and a sandwich. Bottom of the creation consisted of a very thin, crunchy (like the texture of the toast in prawn toast dim sum), delicate piece of bruscetta (not like most bruscettas I have tasted, which were a lot more coarse and thick). This bottom part conveyed some buttery sensations. Yum. And an interesting play, with the use of the bruscetta, on the super-refinement of the staple cheese sandwich.

Nice use of cooked kale on top of the bruscetta to add depth to the dish. Wonderful mix of mushrooms, including oyster mushrooms, were loosely placed on top. Then, two room-temperature quail egg yolks that were not runny, and yet not solid, and that had a little bit of white enveloping them. The white enveloping them was the thinnest, thinnest layer imaginable, and might have carried some lemon jus sensations. A subtle, slightly acidic, thin saucing. And, of course, Bobolink white cheddar in shavings (not melted) on top of the open-faced "sandwich". :)

Paired with Saint Cosme, Cote du Rhone (hope notes have the correct sequencing of the wines!).
(picture midway down page)

-- Mac 'n Cheese. Paired with MR Moscatel, Mulaga 2002. Spaetzle (sp) was utilized instead of macaroni! There were a few leaves of still slightly crunchy brussel spourts and small diced chives and carrots near the bottom of the dish. However, the most interesting aspect of the dish was the use of a beef-stock-based, quite intense, thin-consistency saucing that matched surprisingly well with the cheese on top of the spaetzle. Some parts of the cheese had been baked and resembled the cheese one might find on the top of, say, lasagne.

-- Pan-fried scallops with grapefruit/citrus segments. The cheese was presented in a thin slice and had the texture of slightly melted brie (although not the taste of brie).

-- Berkshire Pork Chop (large) with salsify, apple puree; polenta with melted cheese; cheese tuile. Served with a glass of Vacqueras (Rhone). The cheese melted on top of the polenta was Bobolink; the cheese on the round tuile also accompanying the pork chop was parmesan regiano.

-- Cheese course: (1) Jean Louis (more acidic than when I sampled the same cheese at the Outstanding in the Field event last year at Stone Barn); (2) Bobolink Foret (named after a Belgian farmhouse ale called Foret that is used to wash the cheese; a cheese conveying very much the raw milk utilized for it); (3) Red Pancake (softer in texture, and the youngest cheese served; however, quite strong); (4) White Cheddar; and (5) Drumm (made the same way as the Jean Louis, but using a different size/surface area/volume ratio). The cheese were quite strong-tasting overall, and were served with a glass of Churchills 1997 Port.

-- Green apple sorbet with a square of apple-flavored, christmas-cake-like item and fromage blanc saucing. Alternatively, chocolate bread pudding for my dining companions.

Bobolink is interested in the breed diversity of the cows from which its raw milk cheese are made. The breeds include: Guernseys; Ayrshires; milking shorthorn; Dutch belted; Irish Kerry (a 5000+-year-old rare breed that is to be added to the Bobolink farm).

I really enjoy Blue Hill-hosted events that include suppliers. :)

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