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Beechwood Review

sfglutton | Apr 25, 2005 01:49 PM

Went with the SO and another couple to Beechwood on Friday night. Each of us drove by the place at least once because of the tiny sign (indicator of a hipster spot).

Upon arriving we checked in and had a drink in the bar area. Had a glass of mouvedre while we waited. This is one of my favorite varietals and rare to see by the glass. The bar area was hopping and the volume was high. After a long work week, I was happy to be eating in the dining room instead. The decor was modern with a sandstone wall behind the bar and the now mandatory gas fireplace outside.

We were then escorted to the dining room and a nice booth. The dining room is spare and there is a window to a live tree (beechwood?). The wine list was full of small producers I had never heard of. Our knowledgeable waiter suggested a Melville Syrah that was spicy and perfect with the food. A great wine.

We started with the shortrib medallion off the bar menu and warm marinated beets, lardons, frisee and aged goat cheese off the regular menu. As expected (based on Amuse reviews) the shortribs were out of this world, incredible. The beets were not warm and the frisee was blah.

On to the mains. SO had the SLOW ROASTED WHITE SALMON
red potatoes, beet tops, crème fraiche, shallots and cilantro. She declared it tasty and my bite confirmed it. I had the hot of the evening, and one of the best dishes I've had in quite a while, the GRILLED PORK CHOP
apple-celery root puree, wilted cabbage and papaya relish. The chop was not dry at all, great flavor, and the puree made the dish.

Another main was the GRILLED DRY AGED NEW YORK STEAK
cabrales butter, parmesan-potato gratin, baby spinach salad with bacon vinaigrette. This was declared just ok with no special or redeeming qualities. The final main was a ROASTED CHICKEN BREAST mustard greens, maitake mushrooms and yukon gold potatoes. Same review as the steak. These two were the disappointments.

Finally, dessert. We had the STICKY BUN STUFFED BAKED APPLE with spiced caramel & vanilla ice cream. This was tasty but there was very little sticky bun. The dessert highlight was the PEANUT BUTTER TRUFFLE TART
with homemade cracker jacks. The smooth peanut butter was a nice contrast with the firm dark chocolate. Cracker jacks tastes out of the box.

Overall, I was impressed with the food, wine, decor, and service at beechwood. Then again, I was lucky enough to have the best entree. BTW - when we left, there was a long line to get in and a bouncer working the door, club-style.

Link: http://www.beechwoodrestaurant.com/ho...

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