After spending four nights in wonderfu Senigallia, we set off for Ascoli Piceno where we had booked three nights in Palazzo dei Mercanti, a hotel that I highly recommend. It's a handsome renovation of adjacent historic buildings and the breakfasts are memorable. This was the first time I'd sampled "cornetto alle carbone," a black croissant which was just sensational, both in looks and in taste. Not to mention the rest of the breakfast, in the street level restaurant open to the public.
The weather had changed by then and we did not see much sun during our three days in this architectural paradise of gleaming white travertine. Never mind. We assuaged our weather woes with plentiful local delicacies.
After departing from Senigallia and pausing for lunch and the views from Sirolo on the Conero Riviera where we had a very good Sunday seafood lunch at La Torre in Numana, we were not feeling very hungry that night of arrival, and none of the eateries in town sounded compelling enough to make us want to undertake a long trek in the pouring rain. What to do? Pizza, of course.
The hotel recommended Bella Napoli on a pretty square a couple of blocks distant and diagonally across from Nonna Nina which, as the sign stated, was full up on that rainy Sunday night. The pizza was fine and inexpensive, as compared to New York prices, and we were treated like honored guests in this bustling eatery, stuffed with diners of all ages and generations. One Margherita pizza (with scamorza affumicata--a personal obsession-- added to the lashing of bufala mozzarella on my request) and half a carafe of house verdicchio came to 10 euro. We had a good time at Bella Napoli! There is no website, only a Facbook page, but it is on Via dei Bonaparte, in the corner of the Piazza della Viola, diagonally across from Nonna Nina, as I mentioned above. Open Sunday nights, which is good to keep in mind. Sunday is the very best
time to soak up the family atmosphere that prevails in most restaurants in Italy that we visited. More life, more chatting back and forth, more cute children to watch.....just a joy and a gift to be able to be present.
Just make sure to book ahead!
Cornetto al Carbone, black croissant, dusted with sugar and divine
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