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Anthocyane Paris: a mixed experience

mbcraw4d | Jun 28, 201711:34 PM

To meet our friend halfway, we were looking for a restaurant on the rue Daguerre, and we chose this instead of Cantine du Troquet because we eat at the Dupleix one all the time. Anthocyane was on Talbott's list of top restaurants for 2016, so we figured we'd have a good meal there, and we were mostly right.

We were feeling expansive and got the 68 E tasting menu, and the server/chef/owner? suggested wines to go with it--both of which were delicious (a Jurançon and a Luberon Syrah). We were gauche enough to ask about the price of the wine, and he never told us how much the Syrah would be ("it's going to be more than the white").

The amuse was guacamole with seared tuna--delicious--and a blob of liver mousseline with a cheese cracker--way too heavy and livery for me during the heat wave.

Entree: a "perfect egg" with peas. Nice flavors, but to me the egg needed one more degree, since the white was still a little slimy.

Fish course: Beautiful, perfect squid with peas and carrots. Sounds simple but was heavenly. Definitely the highlight of the meal.

Meat course: veal with a side item I can't remember, but it was delicious and perfectly cooked, although our friend said that it had been marinated so much that he couldn't tell it was veal.

We paid (a lot) for the cheese course since we still had wine. There was a fantastic chèvre in there, and it was surprisingly international, with a Manchego and a Stilton.

Dessert: a fluffy meringue, room temperature, with passion fruit sauce and some crunchy meringue on the side. Interesting but I wouldn't order it if I had the choice. No mignardises (!!)

So, 2 great courses, a good cheese course, 2 OK courses, fantastic wine, attentive if odd service. But what soured the experience for us was the fact that the restaurant charged us 28 Euros for 2 bottles of water. This was not water chipped from an iceberg towed from Antarctica to Paris by specially trained artisans, this was Badoit that costs 2 Euros because it comes in a fancy glass bottle. I know, restaurants have to make their margins, and we've paid high prices for water before, but never this much.

So if I were in the area again at lunchtime, I might do the 39-euro deal with water in a carafe, but otherwise it'll be the Cantine...

La Cantine du Troquet Dupleix,
La Cantine du Troquet
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