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Restaurants & Bars

Andy's Bar-b-que - Campbell

Paul H | Feb 20, 200307:33 PM    

Like a girl at the bar on a Saturday night, Andy's Bar-b-que sends out all the right signals. It is in a squat, gray, cinder block building almost under State Highway No. 17. The parking lot is filled with pickup trucks; there is not a single SUV to be found. The smell of wood smoke gets stronger the closer you get to the door. Once inside the windowless building, you find two rooms. The first has a long bar with plenty of libations stacked up awaiting the thirsty and the lonely. The second is a dining room with asphalt floor tiles and linoleum topped tables. U.S. Plywood "wood paneling" adorns the walls, and sconces on the walls provide a dim illumination. The sound absorbent tiles in the ceiling look slightly smudged by smoke and grease. It may not sound like it, but these are all good signs.

I got there at about 11:45 a.m. after the short walk from my office in the Pruneyard. The two of us were the second party to be seated for lunch. The menu features, among other things, Cajun hamburgers, ribs, and two types of barbeque: Beef Brisket and Carolina Pulled Pork.

Alas, things went downhill from here. There were only two employees visible: a waitress and the bartender. After we had been sitting down for about 10 minutes and the place was starting to fill up the waitress came and took our order. Another 10 minutes went by and the bartender decided he was also the cook and changed stations. A further 10 minutes passed and I was served my combo plate of brisket and pulled pork. I also had garlic bread and slaw. The slaw was fine; I wish there had been more. It was crisp cabbage in a creamy but tart sauce, quite refreshing. The garlic bread was sagging in the middle and a bit greasy. The plate of bbq was a puzzle. There were obviously two piles of meat there, but they were cut the same. Which was the pork, and which was the beef? If anyone had pulled the pork, they had glued it back together. Further, both the beef and the pork were extremely fatty and gristle laden. Each piece had to be trimmed before it was eaten. The final straw was that there was more smoke in the air than taste in the meat, and the slightly sweet tomato based sauce was very tame. Even the spicy version didn't add enough taste to help the meat.

Sigh. Another romance thwarted. I'll just have to wait until I get back to Ft. Worth to visit Antonio's on White Settlement Road. Or, perhaps my next trip to Duncan, SC will allow a trip to a place on a back road with real pulled pork.

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