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Amalfi Coast/Venice restaurant report

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Amalfi Coast/Venice restaurant report

Ropa Vieja | Sep 26, 2003 01:07 AM

We got back from our honeymoon on the Amalfi Coast and Venice a few weeks ago, and had some great meals. Great places in Rome, but I'll do a separate posting for those later.

POSITANO - Avoid the touristy restaurants on the beach -- which lots of chowhounders oddly recommend. I know some people have said the food in these places isn't so bad, and that's true, but it's also not so good either, and ridiculously overpriced. Also avoid a place called il capitano, which was awful. in general, avoid the main beach, which is not that nice -- crowded with tourists and packed with overpriced, not so nice shops.

if you do that, positano will be fantastic. for great meals, try:

-Il Ritrovo, which is up on a hill above positano. they will send a car to come get you. great for people-watching on a weekend night, as it will be full of italian families. had a great mixed grill there, a great pasta with seafood and grilled whole fish.

-Taverna Del Leone (might be Della leone?), which is on the outskirts of positano. we had lots of fantastic food there. a wonderful octopus salad appetizer. great homemade ravioli with pumpkin and clams, great homemade spaghetti with shrimp and zucchini. the mixed antipasto was terrific.

-lunch at the sirenuse hotel is overpriced, but actually very good food, and a beautiful view.

-palazzo murat is an extremely romantic place, where you can have a great dinner outside. food is pricey -- but not terribly so, and it is excellent. perhaps the best mozarella ive ever had. my wife had cannelloni (sp.?) with shrimp and spinach, which was great. i had pasta with anchovies and bottarga -- which might not be for everyone, since it's quite fishy, but i loved it. tourist quotient: high.

-finally, in positano, YOU MUST take a boat ride with salvatore capraro, tel. 089 875211, who will also take you to a unbelievable lunch place, whose name i'm forgetting, but it was probably the best meal we had. the boat ride is fantastic too.

unfortunately, we didnt make it to capri, but salvatore's brother does a ride there too, so they probably can recommend some places to eat.

RAVELLO

Such an unbelievably beautiful place. Go have a coffee outside at villa cimbrone, which is the most spectacular garden you'll ever see, with an incredible view.

-Cumpa Cosimo, which will be a tad touristy, but very nice, hearty food. had fetuccine bolognese and some yummy, garlicky lamb chops.

-villa maria, beautiful view, great vegetable soup, octopus with lentils, spaghetti with zucchini, spaghetti with clams.

-villa amore -- avoid at all costs! probably the worst meal i've ever had in Italy.

-da salvatore, not quite as good as the others, but gore vidal does eat lunch there every sunday.

ATRANI
-le palme, great seafood. had crabs over pasta. yum!
-zaccaria, cldnt get in, but it looked great, and not a single tourist. make a reservation.

VENICE

we didnt have amazing luck with restaurants, but one really good place we got from chowhound was avogaria, www.avogaria.com. hip, romantic place and oddly modern for venice. great fried seafood, fantastic mussels. tel. 0412960491. its a bit hard to find though, so hopefully, your hotel will have a good concierge. there are directions to it in another posting on chowhound, that were very helpful, although they make it sound like a shorter walk than it is.

hope this is helpful.

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