Au Revoir, M. Wells

Chowhounds took to M. Wells Diner in Queens right from the start, so last week's news of its impending closure came as a blow—both to its fans and to those who'd been meaning to go. "sucks i never got to try it," laments waxyjax.

But wait: M. Wells is still cooking its free-ranging "Québéco-American" food until the end of August, when its lease is up, and it has extended evening service to Fridays and Saturdays for a series of "farewell dinners." Beyond that, chef-owner Hugue Dufour is scouting bigger, better real estate around the neighborhood and may land a temporary gig at the nearby P.S. 1 arts space.

Despite all these potential distractions, the kitchen appears to have kept its focus. bytepusher's recent lunch was highlighted by on-target escargots in bone marrow; a novel "gravlax pie" combining potato-filled puff pastry with cured salmon, crème fraîche, and salmon roe; and pickled pork tongue on house-made saltines with mustard ("Best 6 bucks I've spent on a restaurant dish in a very long time"). "I was suitably impressed," he concludes, "and will definitely go back when they get a new place going."

M. Wells Diner [Long Island City]
21-17 49th Avenue (at 21st Street), Long Island City, Queens
718-425-6917

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