NoNatto kept driving by North of the Border Mexican Grill, “supposing it to be just another taco joint selling microwaved enchiladas smothered in cheese and salsa.” That was a mistake. A visit showed that this little family-run place has a Guatemalan owner who has peppered the menu with Guatemalan, Colombian, and Salvadoran dishes, along with the Mexican standards.

NoNatto stuck to the appetizers and had wonderful tamales, “with a sauce of subtle complexity and a little heat.” Pupusas come with a nicely mild curtido, chicken tacos are homey with finely diced chicken, and rellenitos are “a revelation: mashed plantains stuffed with sweetened cinnamon-spiked refried beans and deep-fried to a dark brown, served hot with a container of crema.”

Avoid the flautas, which are understuffed. NoNatto sums up: “Not destination dining necessarily, but good honest ethnic fare in a corner of the city that can surely benefit from more culinary diversity.”

North of the Border Mexican Grill [Roxbury]
5272 Washington Street, Boston

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