Rubirosa on Mulberry Street fired up its oven just a few months ago, but its roots stretch back many years to Staten Island, home of some of New York’s best underdiscussed pizza. The new place is a younger cousin of Joe & Pat’s, a longtime favorite in Castleton Corners, and its pizza shares the same DNA: “Super thin crust, slight char, no tip sag, light sweet sauce and good cheese,” as stuartlafonda pegs it.
Rubirosa’s kitchen fare is solid too, overseen by a veteran of the fondly remembered Olana—”mostly old-fashioned, red-sauce Italian,” rrems says, “but of very high quality.” He recommends cheese-filled rice balls (“light as a feather”) and tender fried calamari or zucchini. Pastas excel, he adds. Try cavatelli with broccoli rabe and sausage; manicotti with ricotta, mozzarella, and tomato; or, if they’re making it, a special of chocolate ravioli with eggplant and duck ragout (“may sound odd but it was really delicious,” rrems swears). And DavyTheFatBoy loves delicate ricotta ravioli in a butter sauce with squash and Parmesan—”simple, understated, and what I would expect in Italy. For a pizza place the pasta was amazingly refined.”
235 Mulberry Street (between Prince and Spring streets), Manhattan