La Cucina Italiana interviews journalist Beppe Severgnini for its June issue (not available online), a sort of Italian Dave Barry whose cross-cultural takes on his home country and America have established him as a humorist of international repute. In the course of chatting with LCI, he condemns “Italian foods” such as fettuccine Alfredo (“foods that are universal symbols of Italy but are not truly Italian”), tees off on the “blasphemous” trend of people drinking cappuccinos in the evening, and offers a hearty endorsement of porceddu, Sardinian roasted suckling pig. It’s always entertaining—and all too rare—to read a native’s take on the shortcomings and strengths of his own national cuisine.

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