Humble white bread takes on savory swagger in a knockout Indian snack at Mumbai Xpress. The Mumbai grilled sandwich, first sniffed out by DaveCook, is three perfectly toasted slices layered with potato, cheese, and coriander chutney, cut into neat quarters.

The server may suggest adding a dollop of ketchup; if you do, Polecat says, “you’ve got something approaching a Mumbai Big Mac. Only–trust me on this–better, much better.” Just how much better? “otherworldly, stacked, crunchy, smooth, dagwood jr., vibrant, drawn-n-quartered, even strangely beautiful,” he rhapsodizes.

This singular sandwich is part of a long menu of vegetarian street bites, from Gujarat and South India as well as Mumbai, at this tidy shop in Floral Park, Queens, on the city’s eastern fringe. toby1355 singles out the special pav bhaji, a tomatoey lentil-potato curry served with toasted bread (pav) for dipping; it’s “Really, really spicy and good.” Pakoras, fried to order, are “mighty fine,” Polecat says: very crisp and not too greasy. Adventurous soft-drink fans should try Hajoon’s Kashmiri Soda, he adds: “If you dig your spice, and your carbonation, here it is in one bottle.”

Mumbai Xpress [Floral Park]
256-05 Hillside Avenue (near 256th Street), Floral Park, Queens

Board Link: Mumbai Express

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