The worst thing a kitchen can do to calf’s liver is overcook it, cimui observes—“that turns some people off to liver for life.” And that’s why she loves the version at West Branch, the newish Mediterranean American place from Tom Valenti (Ouest). Served with crispy sweetbreads, onion, and bacon, it comes out “tender, moist and perfectly cooked.”

The Red Cat has figured it out, too, turning out great liver au poivre with bacon–Swiss chard pie; “what I loved about it,” adrman says, “was that it was thick cut and cooked medium/medium rare, much like I do it myself at home.”

Liver Venetian style has won fans at Gonzo, where it’s made with pancetta, rosemary, and a bit of brandy, and Le Zie, where 45yearheelfan appreciates its piquant touch of vinegar. Trestle on Tenth serves a Swiss-accented version that comes with rösti potatoes and is flavored with sage.

Others endorse the liver at Blaue Gans, Wallse, Quatorze Bis, Le Petite Auberge (where it’s an occasional special), and Vince & Eddie’s, where JoanN finds it a dependable highlight on an otherwise hit-or-miss menu.

West Branch [Upper West Side]
2178 Broadway (at W. 77th Street), Manhattan

The Red Cat [Chelsea]
227 10th Avenue (between W. 23rd and 24th streets), Manhattan

Gonzo [Greenwich Village]
140 W. 13th Street (between Sixth and Seventh avenues), Manhattan

Le Zie [Chelsea]
172 Seventh Avenue (near W. 20th Street), Manhattan

Trestle on Tenth [Chelsea]
242 10th Avenue (at W. 24th Street), Manhattan

Blaue Gans [Tribeca]
139 Duane Street (between W. Broadway and Church Street), Manhattan

Wallse [West Village]
344 W. 11th Street (at Washington Street), Manhattan

Quatorze Bis [Upper East Side]
323 E. 79th Street (near Second Avenue), Manhattan

Le Petite Auberge [Murray Hill]
116 Lexington Avenue (at E. 28th Street), Manhattan

Vince & Eddie’s [Upper West Side]
70 W. 68th Street (between Columbus Avenue and Central Park West), Manhattan

Board Link: Best Liver (and onions? w/ bacon?)

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