My first taste of chocolate-covered fruit was cherry cordials. From the waxy milk chocolate to the maraschinolike cherry floating in a weird viscous liquid, the event nearly put me off fruit-and-chocolate combinations. But my hopes were high upon receiving a box of Mademoiselle de Margaux Le Raisin. I plucked one of the candies from the box, admiring the ingeniously engineered stem (a plastic stick impaling the confection), and popped it in my mouth. Tiny chocolate pebbles stuck to a thin coating of dark chocolate, and the juicy grape soaked in rum was sublime. The slight tannin from the grape, the lightly sweet chocolate, and the right amount of rum gave it all the perfect balance. I immediately had another, just to make sure I had tasted it correctly … and then one more for good measure.