Suppenküche is going uphill, says Joan Kureczka. On previous visits, the food quality has been pretty poor: watery salads, lifeless seasonings. A recent visit shows everything’s changed for the better. Mixed salads are truly great: tender, tart white and red cabbage salads; very good beet salad; and fine carrot salad.

That night’s special was goose, and it was truly wonderful—tender, flavorful, with little bits of very crisp, delicious skin. Even the potato dumplings were great. Potato dumplings at a place like this are usually gluey, leaden masses. But here, you get a nice ball of flavorful mash, encased in tender skin.

The venison is also good. It doesn’t have quite the savor of the venison at Weisses Brauhaus in Munich, but it’s tender, and it’s here.

Portions are huge.

Suppenküche [Hayes Valley]
525 Laguna Street, San Francisco

Board Link: Grosse Ganse—Great Goose!

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