There is a store in San Pablo that sells holy pupusas. It started with somebody selling pupusas out of their home on a Sunday. And then it became a store with jewelry and clothes—no pupusas. Then, the store grew a semi-restaurant, explains rworange. On Sundays, the alleyway outside the store turns into a food stall. There are portable grills with huge black skillets frying up whole fish.
Along the wall of the building there are big bowls of masa and griddles; place your order and one of the women grabs a handful of masa, fills it, pats it, and grills it before your very eyes. They are lovely, oily wonders with brown and blistered skin. The cheese oozes goodness, and comes with beautiful loroco, which adds a fresh, herbal, green-tea zen thing to the whole deal.
The curtido—the salsa that’s supposed to go on top of your pupusa—is cabbage, bordering on sauerkraut in its fermented intensity.
It’s festive. It’s bright. It’s always packed. The pupusas are $1.25.
Look for some signs. There is a bright yellow sign that says Igleia Evangelia Voz De Salvacion Eben-Ezer in front of the building. There is a large sloppily painted sign that says something like “Venta de pupusas Desallonos.” It is across the street from El Porvenir Market.
Open Sundays, lunch only.
Mysterious pupusa store [East Bay]
1472 Rumrill Blvd., San Pablo (across the street from El Porvenir Produce Market)