Pizza hounds love to talk hardware, and the ovens that forge their favorite pies are usually fired by wood or, in rare cases, coal. But Wild Rise, the newish pop-up that occupies DUMBO’s 68 Jay Street Bar three nights a week, turns out more-than-credible pizza powered only by Con Ed. Mike R. says its all-electric oven, customized to the max, brings serious heat—900 degrees plus. And heat matters. Even without the smoky, woodsy notes prized by many, Wild Rise’s Neapolitan-style pies deliver clean flavors, pleasing chewiness, and a welcome char.

The simple, satisfying marinara, made with San Marzanos, is “a tomatoey delight,” Mike says. (If you like, ask for grated Grana Padano on the side.) A pie topped with shiitakes, buffalo mozzarella, and garlic has “the look and feel of other Neapolitan-type greatnesses such as Paulie Gee’s and Kesté,” though Mike would’ve liked more mushroom for the price: $13 for a 7-incher, $21 for a 10-incher. But these pizzas are not only the product of hardware and heat. Wild Rise imports wild yeast from Italy that lends the crust what Mike describes as a “sweet-sour complexity” that only deepens as the pie sits. “Try and wait a few minutes before eating,” he advises.

Wild Rise at 68 Jay Street Bar [DUMBO]
68 Jay Street (at Water Street), Brooklyn

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