Better Pizza Through Electricity

Pizza hounds love to talk hardware, and the ovens that forge their favorite pies are usually fired by wood or, in rare cases, coal. But Wild Rise, the newish pop-up that occupies DUMBO's 68 Jay Street Bar three nights a week, turns out more-than-credible pizza powered only by Con Ed. Mike R. says its all-electric oven, customized to the max, brings serious heat—900 degrees plus. And heat matters. Even without the smoky, woodsy notes prized by many, Wild Rise's Neapolitan-style pies deliver clean flavors, pleasing chewiness, and a welcome char.

The simple, satisfying marinara, made with San Marzanos, is "a tomatoey delight," Mike says. (If you like, ask for grated Grana Padano on the side.) A pie topped with shiitakes, buffalo mozzarella, and garlic has "the look and feel of other Neapolitan-type greatnesses such as Paulie Gee's and Kesté," though Mike would've liked more mushroom for the price: $13 for a 7-incher, $21 for a 10-incher. But these pizzas are not only the product of hardware and heat. Wild Rise imports wild yeast from Italy that lends the crust what Mike describes as a "sweet-sour complexity" that only deepens as the pie sits. "Try and wait a few minutes before eating," he advises.

Wild Rise at 68 Jay Street Bar [DUMBO]
68 Jay Street (at Water Street), Brooklyn

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