Ceramic cherubs, painted leather shields, and landscapes of Provence apparently painted by your Aunt Kathy are all part of what make La Bergerie surreal and enjoyable. It is not haute cuisine. It is not cutting edge. It tastes the way “fancy” French food used to taste in the 1970s, says Carrie 218. It’s owned by Cambodians and serves an almost-entirely-Asian crowd, but it would be a mischaracterization to call it “fusion.”

Service is impeccable and the experience is memorable. Escargots with warm, crusty bread are a nice start; butter lettuce salad and sage-infused pea soup are pretty sweet, too. Your soup, salad, entr

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