Efficient, easy to use, and good-looking.
The cutting wires seem a little flimsy.
Slices eggs, mushrooms, and soft cheeses the way you’d expect, in a handsome design that you don't often find in inexpensive kitchen gadgets.
Hard-boiled eggs require a certain amount of wrangling. First comes peeling (aggravating, unless the egg gods smile on you and the shell falls away). And to get neat slices for that niçoise salad or open-faced sandwich, you have to chase a bunch of slippery ovoids around a cutting board with a sharp knife. No one knows for sure who invented the mechanical egg slicer or when, but the familiar slotted aluminum stand with a hinged form fixed with tension-wire cutters has been taking up space in Americans’ gadget drawers since the mid 20th century. KitchenAid didn’t reinvent anything for its Classic Egg Slicer so much as give the tool a polished modern look, with a charm as glossy as the enamel on one of the company's iconic stand mixers.
The appropriately egg-shaped gadget is roughly the size of your hand, about 6.5 inches long, 4.2 inches across at the widest part, and an inch high (not counting the raised slicing bed). Rounded edges make the hinged top easy to grab (important if you’re slicing something that you need to apply some pressure to, like mushrooms). The slicing wires attach to a harplike frame that snaps in and out of the lid. The four rubbery feet are said to be nonskid, though they skidded across our counter pretty easily. It’s dishwasher safe, and the one we reviewed here is in KitchenAid’s Empire Red, a handsome shade with a designer aura. (If you’re into matching, KitchenAid makes a corresponding line of tools, from peelers to vegetable brushes, in the same shade—the company makes a classic stand mixer in Empire Red, too.)
It’s pretty much a one-trick pony (we call them unitaskers in the CHOW Test Kitchen), but the packaging mentions that you can use this tool for slicing mushrooms and soft cheeses in addition to eggs. So we did.
Hard-cooked eggs: No sweat—beautiful slices just under 1/4 inch wide, and a whole egg dispatched in less than two seconds.
Mushrooms: Older reviews on Amazon report broken cutting wires, so we put our KitchenAid Classic to work on more than a pound of the biggest, densest mushrooms we could find. Even under some pretty firm pressure, the wires sliced and survived (we even cut through the slices again, to create thick mushroom batons). Success.
Fontina cheese: After we trimmed our fontina block to fit the slicer, the blades produced medium-thick slices perfect for sandwiches or a Ploughman’s Lunch. Cheese isn’t the reason we’d buy an egg slicer, but it’s a nice bonus.
Photos by Chris Rochelle