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When fall comes around, pumpkin and butternut squash always seem to steal the spotlight from the other squash. This simple dish puts the sweet delicata front and center and pairs it with pumpkin seeds and ricotta salata.
What to buy: Ricotta salata is a semihard Italian cheese that can be found at most gourmet markets or Italian groceries. If you can’t find it, you can substitute crumbled feta (which will be a bit saltier) or just leave it out.
Saba is resqueezed and cooked wine-grape must (the leavings of grape pressings), and it tastes something like wine-flavored molasses. It can be found in gourmet grocery stores and online. To add a little spice, you can swap pumpkin seeds for spicy roasted garbanzo beans.
Beverage pairing: Naia Verdejo, Spain. This dish has a pungent sharpness from the sherry vinegar, shallot, and ricotta salata. The squash brings a little sweetness. All of these are qualities shared by this Verdejo, which has a lemony sharpness mellowed by vanilla and honeysuckle.