Masala

1. 1In a dry skillet, toast crushed cinnamon (not cassia) sticks, Indian bay leaves (or substitute bay laurel), fennel seeds, green cardamom pods, black peppercorns, coriander seeds, and whole cloves until the spices are fragrant and lightly smoking. Cool and then crush. Stir in ground mace or nutmeg. Makes about 1/3 cup. Store in an airtight jar for three to four months.

For the chaat masala:

1. 1In a dry skillet, toast cumin seeds, fennel seeds, and coriander seeds until lightly browned and fragrant. Cool and crush in a mortar and pestle or in a spice grinder. Combine with sea salt, black salt, amchur powder, ground ginger, ground hot chiles, ground black pepper, and asafetida. Makes about 1 cup.

For the chai masala:

1. 1In a dry skillet, combine star anise pods, green cardamom pods, black peppercorns, crushed cinnamon stick (not cassia), and cloves. Toast until fragrant, shaking often. Cool and then grind. Stir in ground ginger. Makes about 1/2 cup.