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Restaurants & Bars 6

The Young Turks [London]

ManInTransit | Oct 14, 201102:33 AM

I don't think I've mentioned the Young Turks on Chowhound before as their brief pop-ups would be difficult for the short-term visitor but with the news they've secured a three-month stint at a pub in East London I think it's time to tell the world.
Isaac McHale and James Lowe formed the Young Turks collective after meeting cooking with Rene Redzepi at Noma. Until recently Isaac worked with Brett Graham at The Ledbury and James was the head chef and St John Bread and Wine.
They've done a series of pop-ups in the last year with an elongated stint at an office block in Canary Wharf with the Clove Club, a series of dinners at the Loft Project and some rooftop cooking in south London.

We went to the Clove Club dinner which was four courses with extras of sensational food. Their approach seems to be to take Noma's attitude to ingredients and presentation and adapt it to British produce. We ate Tomatoes with Goat’s Milk & Wild Marjoram, Raw Mackeral, Gooseberries, English Mustard & Crystal Lemon Cucumber, waterbathed Angus Rib, Grilled Onions, Porter & Wild Watercress and for dessert Loganberries, Ewe’s Milk Yoghurt & Beremeal Cake.
The mackeral dish particularly was stellar, for some reason we'd eaten raw mackeral in a series of restaurants in the weeks leading up to the clove club and their version was better than that of Hibiscus, Viajante and a couple of others.

They start at the Ten Bells in Spitalfields at the end of October for a three-month run. Booking details aren't available yet but should be forthcoming pretty soon.

127 Ledbury Rd, Kensington, England W2 5, GB

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