Restaurants & Bars

Vin sur Vin Paris report

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Vin sur Vin Paris report

agilliam | Mar 26, 2006 02:09 PM

We had a superb meal at Vin sur Vin, following up on my request for classic cuisine and a stellar wine list. We thoroughly enjoyed discussing wines with the owner, and he seemed to enjoy our pleasure in equal measure.

We started with champagne as we perused the wine list. An amuse of veloute of spinach with a chip of crispy bacon was stunning in its simplicity; no froth, no bizarre herbal addition to take away from the intended full flavor. we knew that we had chosen the right restaurant after the first bite.

Our starters were the gallette of pig's feet (crispy, flat fritter of shredded meat and mushrooms) and asparagus with truffles (large steamed then grilled spears of green asparagus, served with a soft whole egg, shaved black truffle and a piquant truffle sauce. both entrees were perfectly paired with a glass of Savanierres, a Loire white, suggested by owner. I have never before considered eating anything remotely close to pig's feet, but found myself happily trading plates after the first addictive bites. This dish was delightfully contradictory; the textures of the crunchy outside and the rich, tender inside; the tastes of the smokey fried fat and the velvet earthiness of the mushrooms... The asparagus dish was perfectly done and equally amazing; I will recreate it often at home.

We chose a robust St Estephe for red wine. I had roasted lamb chops served with a rich but balanced port reduction. this sauce also had pine nuts which i removed as they had a strong (medicinal) taste of rosemary? The dish was nonetheless fabulous and unfussy. My husband ordered pigeon at the suggestion of the owner, with some trepidation as we were both 'pigeon virgins'. The meat was rich, gamey but not overpowering, and literally melted in your mouth. The sauce was quite sweet, but when paired in moderation with the meat and wine, was very balanced.

After the richness of the aforementioned courses, we could barely share a cheese plate. The cheeses were excellent specimens; a young goat with ash, a bleu d'auvergne , and a superbe livarot.

We thoroughly enjoyed the food, wine and warm welcome, and felt that we got great value for money. It definitely wasn't cheap, but everything was high quality and un-contrived. We will return on our next trip.

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