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Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area

Tu Y Yo, Powderhouse Sq., Somerville

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Tu Y Yo, Powderhouse Sq., Somerville

Limster | Jan 18, 2004 12:50 AM

Menu seemed to range from the area around Mexico City, complex rich sauces with a sheen reminiscient of Oaxaca and Poblano (sp?), but also dishes that I realized were likely Yucatan from reading the various boards on chowhound.

The attributions of many dishes to family members of the owners were a lovely, original touch. It may not seem much, but a sense of history and origin is a better garnish than most.

My friend bit into the Jalapenos Maria Luisa, and proclaimed that it couldn't get better than that. A moderate breadcrumbed shell, the smokey jalapenos, then creamy white chicken. Good with the light tomato sauce enriched with lines of sour cream to cut the heat.

Cochinita Pibil sounds the same as the Yucatan dish of pork cooked in banana leaves, but the menu does not describe it thus. Tender fibres of shredded pork are well seasoned, with penetrating red brown spices I couldn't decode (possibly cumin or coriander?), but it came together well, spicy and very lightly tangy.

A nice savoury soury flavour on the Bisteces "Mama" Evelia, good pieces of beef in a good sauce. Can't turn down a dish with named after "Mama."

I think our favourite was the Pollo Yunkaax, enrobed with a opulent green spinach sauce, thickened with probably cream and/or cheese, a great thick feeling on the tongue. The chicken breast was not stringy and generally tender, rolled to hold finely chopped huitlacoche/corn fungus, the Mexican "truffle" that seemed demure on this occasion, exuding a subtle complex umami. A luxuriant set of flavours.

Delicious, hearty beans and good tomato and pepper coloured rice in red and green came as standard sides, along with corn tortillas.

Tangy crimson jamaica agua frescas, a very friendly, self assured hibiscus drink.

Soft super heated custard/cream filled small, freshly made empanadas de natilla, finished with a good roll in sugar and cinnamon.

Flan is belongs to the more delicate variety, modestly dense, and seamlessly smooth.

Very pleased with the quality of the food; good honest cooking with soulful sauces.

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