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Troisgros' Truffle-Anchovy Combo

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Restaurants & Bars

Troisgros' Truffle-Anchovy Combo

cabrales | Dec 10, 2003 09:10 AM

In a current edition of Bon Apetit, Alan Richman describes the black truffle-anchovy amuse at Troisgros, Roanne, as among his five favorite dishes during the past year.

"When I innocently asked Michel Troisgros .... how the black truffle is best used, he said on a buttered cracker, atop an anchovy.... He picked up the idea from an old Piedmontese recipe that paired whtie truffle with a fresh anchovy fillet. From that evoled his mini masterpiece: Take one long, thin cracker. Spread with salted butter from Normandy. Add a fillet of salted anchovy from Laguedoc-Rousillon, near the Spanish border. Top with shavings of fresh, uncooked black truffle.... The anchovy didn't dominate. It faded into the background ... supercharging the pungent truffle taste.... Had I eaten this cracker without looking, I would not have known the anchovy was there."

In last year's black truffle tasting menu at Troisgros, garlic+black truffle was one of the themes. Like the anchovy, diced garlic was utilized by Troisgros, who has one of my preferred cuisines, to augment the truffle's taste.

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