I thought this place was going out of business a couple of months ago but it’s just that they have very limited hours. It’s located in a one-time Bambolino’s drive-thru pizza-by-the-slice location at the corner of Bissonnet and Beechnut. Other tenants have included a hamburger/hot dog stand and another Mexican drive-thru taqueria that didn’t last. One of the tenants put up a deck and Trudi’s sets out tables with umbrellas when they’re open – there’s no neon ‘Open’ sign. Banners hanging on the side of the building and deck railing are the only identification.
I’ve seen people standing in line at 6:45am and I’ve seen cars parked every which way, like cowboys flocking to the chuck wagon, when they’re open and with their limited hours, I anticipated they must serve something very special and I was not disappointed. All they serve is birria de chivo – goat stew, I guess is a good translation. I got a Plato Chico, small plate, and got 3 cups of the stew, close to 2 cups of it meat, for $6. I also got a small cup of fiery, smokey and strangely nutty tasting salsa and a small cup of salsa fresca (pico de gallo) and some lime wedges, but no tortillas. The man gave me a small sample, after being sure I understood it was cabrito, and I knew I was in for a treat.
The stew is rich with meat, minced onions that were still a little crunchy, cilantro (not enough for my taste) and other spices and is very savory and satisfying. I couldn’t wait to warm up some tortillas. One of the attractions of goat meat is supposed to be that it is leaner than beef but they do not trim their meat closely and there’s a significant amount of visible fat in the dish and the broth is fatty.
The top item on the crude, hand-lettered menu on a torn piece of cardboard taped to the window is 25 lbs of birria – they make it in quantity and they sell it in quantity. There is also a platillo grande, consome vasos chico and grande (cups of soup) and tacos.
They’re open only Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon from 7am until they run out. I was there about noon on MLK day and they man said he had about 30 # left to sell. He speaks good enough English to communicate but his female helper apparently speaks none.
I think this is a real find. I could hardly force myself to stop eating but decided I needed to save some for later when I’ll go to the trouble to warm up some tortillas.
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