We have just got back from a trip to Faviken (separate report to follow) and tagged on a few days in Stockholm beforehand. A few highlights:
Hotel Rival - we arrived late at night to our Sodermalm apartment and the Rival seemed to be the only place near Mariatorget that was open. Didn't have high hopes but the food in the main restaurant was actually jolly good, and service impeccable. I had a lightly salted cod, with horseradish, shrimp and brown butter. Well cooked fish and dably seasoned.
One lunch at Okinawa sushi at the top of Timmermams - fine, and really nice staff.
Dinner at Shibumi, the Esperanto group's latest offering, which is meant to be their take on a Japanese izakaya, so was expecting lots of tempura and Sapporo. But this was swish central! Stunning meal, highlights included a 'hand roll' where the cone was filled with sea buckthorn ice cream, a salmon tartare with fried rice paper to make 'sandwiches', and okonomiyaki with chicken sashimi. Splendid.
Pelikan was a disappointment. The room is great, but service very stretched, and the traditional swedish dishes we tried were extremely bland, especially the perch with chanterelles.
Smorgasbord at the Grand was a lovely experience. Not the most exciting food in the world but it's not about that. Herring choice was good, and I especially loved the spiced and beetroot versions.
The Tehran Grill on the top of Timmermans (just by the cliff walk) was a lovely casual supper. Great bread, saffron chicken, and lamb chops. I really enjoyed my milk/mint/salt drink - sort of Iranian lassi I guess! Sweet service. Taste of Vietnam in Sofo was also fine for an informal, cheapish dinner. Service at the Urban Deli nearby was offputtingly too-cool-for-school; we ended up leaving and going elsewhere.
Fika at Chokladkoppen on Gamla Stan was pleasant. A panicked (it was raining) dash into the Thai on the main street was not. Another time we might try the Flying Elk gastropub from the Frantzen team round the corner.
Our favourite food shop was the large supermarket under Hornstull tube. Sort of like a Swedish Whole Foods (with prices to match). Ostermalms Saluhall was pretty to walk round, but actually rather small, and managed to leave without buying anything, which is a first for me in a food hall!!
Finally, fried herring with remoulade from the stand outside Slussen tube was a great street food find. Oh, and PS, so you don't have to, I tried the local speciality hot dog with mashed potato and prawn cocktail inside the wrap together with the frankfurters, mustard and ketchup. I'd wondered whether it was maybe a surprising taste sensation. It's not. Well, not in a good way, though I imagine might hit the spot at 4am when a hangover's beginning to emerge...
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