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St John - Great British Food


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St John - Great British Food

Simon Majumdar | May 10, 2001 04:35 AM

I had not been to St John's in a long time, so at short notice, went last night. I am delighted to say that it remains as dependable as it has been since it opened some 5(?) yrs ago. The cooking is spectacular, the ingredients equally so and the service, amiably dippy. It's real attraction for me after a month of eating ( very well, I must admit ) stateside was to have something of incredible simplicity, prepared simply.

Starter of Roast Marrowbone was fatty and smooth. The salad of pickled capers cut through the richness perfectly. Another starter of whole spider crab served with mayo was good, but as always with these things did not repay the herculean efforts to get to the flesh within.

Main courses of smoked eel,bacon and mash and a Gloucester Old Spot Pork chop were really delicious. The pork was probably the best I have had in 10 years. They dry cure the meat, so it has a hint of brine which the roasting really brings out. The eel was so subtly smoked it was a revelation. Side dishes of braised butterbeans, sweet small jersey royals and spring greens made me realise how much better it was when we all ate seasonally.

Pudding, as ever an unecessary frippery, was a rhubarb crumble with marmalade ice cream.

A bottle of Brandol and glasses of Quetch and Vielle prune brought the bill to £100 for two.

If anyone wants to know what truly great "British" food is like, then they should try this place

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