On Wednesday a parking space appeared a block from Washington Square when I was cruising by at lunch time. I took this as a sign that I was meant to eat in North Beach and Tony’s had been high on my list to try. The sit-down Tony’s Napoletana was overflowing at lunch hour, so I headed next door to Tony’s Coal-Fired Pizza & Slice House.
Usually a plain cheese would be the best indicator of a NY style slice, but the Special of the day (SOD) looked freshly made and appealing on display in the glass case. Topped with meatball, ricotta, red onion and garlic, $5 per slice, the special was reheated to order and served on a paper plate. Heavy on cheese for my taste, but good quality and well-done with jammy tomato sauce and lots of garlic and big flavors.
And, here’s the pizza slice upskirt. The crust was blonder than expected. However, it was light and crispy with an initial firmness that yielded to satisfying chewiness. Quite thin in the middle and becoming a little thicker toward the rim than typical for NY style. In any case, it folded over nicely. The menu states that the New York Style pies are made “using All Trumps (la Biga method)”, a high gluten flour.
Sitting inside sharing the booth with two other customers, I could watch the pizza baking activity. The slices were reheated in the Roto-Flex oven in the back corner. This oven seemed to be used to bake all the other styles of pizza in the case as well. I asked the cashier whether the Fire Deck oven directly behind her station was really coal-fired. She affirmed that it was and said that oven is used for the cooked-to-order “coal-fired pizzas” described on the menu as “15-16 inches all pies have a unique shape using Caputo and Giustos flour”.
How do ‘hounds like the pizzas here?
Tony's Coal-Fired Pizza and Slice House
1556 Stockton St, San Francisco, CA 94133