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Spear/Folsom taco truck, take two

Ruth Lafler | May 15, 200401:22 AM

Pssst and I met for lunch today to do an in-depth study of the Los Compadres taco truck that has taken up residence in a parking lot at Spear and Folsom. She noticed that since her last visit they now have a menu -- in English -- and a new guy taking orders in English, and she was worried perhaps they'd gringofied the food. But no, they'd just made it a little more accessible.

We ended up ordering four tacos: pollo asado, carne asada, carnitas and al pastor and a carne asada torta. All the tacos came with salsa, chopped onion and cilantro, plus the usual lime/radish/pickled peppers and carrots. The pollo was indeed "asado" with a distinct smokey flavor. It was topped with a salsa verde with a bit more jalapeno heat than average. Pretty good. The al pastor, topped with red salsa and dash of the green, was my favorite: juicy and spicy without the BBQ sauce flavors of inferior al pastor. The carne asada was okay, but the carnitas was poor, more like slightly greasy roast pork than carnitas.

We also got a bag of chips and salsa. When tasted on its own, the rich, red salsa revealed a hint of chipotle. The chips were good, thick and fresh made (although not hot), but a little over-salted for my taste.

Pssst will have to tell you about her torta.

The tacos clearly have not been dumbed down for the office worker crowd. In fact, they were spicier than I'm used to: generally, in Fruitvale only the al pastor tacos could be considered "hot."

Perhaps even more amazingly, the tacos are the same $1.25! I may have to cross Market St. for lunch more often.

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