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Satellite Republic

dml | Jul 19, 2012 09:01 PM

Mopeds, Georgia, cooking, pottery: Boris Portnoy's favorite things, as he says on the Facebook page for Satellite Republic, his new venture that combines them all. Boris and his moped-mounted tandoor grill came to South Park to serve Georgian lunch the other day and I was compelled to go investigate.

The menu for the day was two bread-based items: khachapuri (cheese bread with chili sauce) and lamb tandir sandwich. The bread is the star. He has a couple of boxes of little flour-dusted doughballs that he bakes to order in the tandoor, coming out with mixed tender and crispy bits.

The feta and mozzarella in the khachapuri are great with the dried-chili-and-herb sauce. I could eat them all day.

For the sandwich, Boris uses lamb raised in marshes around San Pablo, which he says has a similar effect to the pré-salé lamb of Brittany (I'm not sure I could tell). He's using shoulder, cooked sous-vide then heated in the tandoor. Lovely flavor, moist and tender. Super-tart plum sauce, mild white onion and parsley on top--great, if perhaps a bit too tart on the balance.

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