Had the pleasure of being invited to one of the pre-opening nights at this new restaurant opening on North Broadway in Boulder. It's owned by Martin Hammer, former Gen. Mngr of the Flagstaff House and the Chef is Kelli Kingsford, formerly of Brasserie 1010. We were there Friday night, which was the first of 3 nights of closed-to-the-public shakedown cruise. I'm not connected with the restaurant but have known Martin from his Flagstaff House days.
The menu looks outstanding and the execution of our choices Friday night was remarkable. We started with an arugula prosciutto salad and I was immediately impressed because of the light touch of dressing which was just enough for subtle flavor, but allowed the fresh tastes of the ingredients to shine. A wonderful feature which carried through to all courses. This is a nice departure from those places who feel the need to drench everything in the sauce du jour. My wife being a frites freak began with an order of parmesan frites. I could swear but cannot vouch that they were cooked in olive oil and again, some shaved parmesan provided complementary flavor.
As a note, a 10 year old or so boy at the table next to us began with the mussels appetizer and after his main course asked for a second helping of mussels! It was truly gratifying to see a kid who could get excited about something other than Big Macs.
My main course was a lightly crusted cod over crisp vegies with a slightly spicy tomato flavored sauce. The cod was perfect, the sauce just right. My wife went for the "Black Risotto" which was flavored with black truffles and absolutely heavenly. The only stumble for the evening was dessert. Two were offered and we each tried one. The lemon tart's crust was very hard and the filling only so-so. The chocolate "something" tasted good but the mousselike consistency was also very stiff. They could use some dessert help. Wine list is varied and reasonably priced. We chose a Spanish Crianza which was $31/bottle.
The food is my important indicator and we were impressed. I suppose if you wanted to label the menu, it would be mediterranean leaning but the combinations cross many boundaries. There are small plates, appetizers, salads and main courses. Service started a bit chaotic, but I chalk that up to pre-opening jitters. The decor is modern but warm. The bar is great and inviting. 4580 is a welcome addition to the far North Broadway wasteland and we'll be going back.
By the way, the place is located at 4580 N. Broadway (go figure) and the official opening is Tuesday, April 4.
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