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Radio Africa Kitchen -- report [San Francisco]

Ruth Lafler | May 9, 2012 11:19 PM

Seven of us got together tonight to check out Radio Africa Kitchen. Yes, it's in the Bayview. Yes, it's worth the trip (not bad from downtown on the T).

The menu had five appetizers and four entrees, so we ordered one of everything, and then ordered a second round of our favorites, which turned out to be the mezze plate (with a pale green hummous-like substance not listed on the menu that turned out to be made from fava beans and edamame), the aromatic kufta meatballs, and the lamb two ways (shoulder stewed with dried apricots and slices of smoky roasted leg). I would happily have ordered any of the dishes, though, although the beet salad and the barramundi were a little boring next to the more richly seasoned dishes. Service was warm and friendly -- Chef Eskender himself was acting as a busboy, wiping down tables and filling water glasses, happy and excited finally to have his own restaurant. He said he was planning on opening for lunch in June and to create a restaurant with a comfortable, community feel where people could just walk in, sit down and eat together.

Just about the only thing I didn't like was the fact that when it was more than half full it was noisy, as in leaning across the table saying "What, I can't hear you!" noisy. They have what appear to be baffles but they aren't doing the job!

Pictures: beet salad, tuna kitfo, mushroom souffle, mezze

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