I took the Times article (Wed. 19 March, p. F8) "In Bushwick, The Pizza as Art" with me last Sunday to find out for myself. Wow!
At Roberta's (261 Moore Street, 718-417-1118) ) I ordered a regular pizza (11") with their home-made guanciale -- hog's jowl, that is. The runny egg that usually comes with this combo did not appeal. I had a small classic bottled Diet Coke for $2.00. This was superior pizza with a woody aroma. The Diet Coke was...Diet Coke.
Also, on the recommendation of Chris, the owner, I ordered a Lamb Breast ($9) to go. When I opened the container, a blast of moutonic essence reached my nostrils before you could sing "Mary Had a little....
Music: eclectic -- Rock of all ages, jazz, funk...no Beethoven or church music, probably.
Ambience: Brooklyn funk. As I approached this Palace of Pizza some 20-somethings
a la grunge were sitting in a clump on the sidewalk. Wierd, but colorful cute. There are long tables and some regularly shaped ones. Very down home, the kind of look that could incorporate sawdust on the floor.
Getting there: Drive or take the L train to Morgan (?). By car, about 14 minutes from the BQE entrance off the Williamsburg Bridge. Around the corner on Bogart there is a well-stocked health food store that deserves your business - nice Hispanic platters available.
Conclusion: If you love John's of Bleeker Street, Sal's, Pepe's, and the Modern in New Haven, Sal and Carmines on Broadway at 102nd, Joe's of Carmine Street, and V&T's on Amsterdam near Columbia University, hie thee hence to Chris Parachini's Roberta's. Bring your camera to take a shot of the really cool (hot!) oven. Don't dress up.
Bravi, Chris and the P team!