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Pizza Conversion Attempt

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Pizza Conversion Attempt

Seth Zurer | Nov 6, 2001 11:12 AM

I made a resolution upon reading Zim's confessions about Pizza that I would spend this winter combing the city's pizza parlors for a thin crustpizza worth his time and affection. I've combed the boards, and other sources, and will be posting periodically on new places that I try. I hesitate to bring this up, knowing how inflammatory anti-chicago pizza language can be, but I should note for the record that I'll be holding the pizzas I try to non-chicago standards...which is to say, I understand the inclination of VI and others (perfectly clear-headed in many other respects) to take Chicago thin crust pizza as its own legit style, but I can't judge pizza by that rubric, much as I might like to. I'll be looking for the sort of pizza that made me love pizza (and that I hope will convert Zim): thin crust, lightly cheesed, greasy, burnt blackened spots on the bottom, foldable, crisp-edged but pliant, non-crackery crusted.

To that end, I tried Pizza DOC last week: very authentic Roman style pizza. Not really what I was looking for, but pretty tasty nonetheless. I tried as someone vehemently recommended, the arugula pie -- a very thin, floury crackeresque crust, baked with cheese and oil etc, then topped with raw arugula and sliced cherry tomatoes. The arugula wilted slightly on contact with the crust. It was tasty, well seasoned and savory, very light. But not really what I had in mind for Zim. I agree with the previous Pizza DOC posters about the price: a little over the top. My date and I also ate some figs and prosciutto, which was served (unnecessarily) on a rosemary foccaccia and a blob of mascarpone. Pretty nice. I had gnochetti with a cheesy cream sauce (mascarpone, and blue cheese) which were nice if a little lacking in structural integrity: approaching a potato flour porridge rather that individual nubbins of dough. My date had a grilled tuna steak, which came drastically overcooked at first, then better on the second attempt, with nice skillet fried potatoes and overcooked haricots verts. The tuna wasn't great, not fantastic quality fish, and the sauce of olives, sundried tomatoes and thyme didn't really meld at all.

So, Pizza DOC gets a thumbs up for Roman Style pizza, but a thumbs down for converting Zim. They also provided hot and cold service, sometimes very attentive at other moments inexplicably clueless (the wine service was non-existent). So, more to come, I hope more successful visits.

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