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Boston Area Cambridge Sub / Sandwich Pizza

Pinocchio's Pizza and Subs, Harvard Sq, Cambridge

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Restaurants & Bars 6

Pinocchio's Pizza and Subs, Harvard Sq, Cambridge

Limster | Dec 23, 2002 09:54 AM

I must have walked by Pinocchio's a zillion times -- and missed it every single time. Fortunately, a couple of my buddies who happen to lurk on this board (you know who you are -- many thanks!) insisted that I try it. And it would have been one amazing life-changing slice of Sicilian pizza, except that I had two.

Most of the Sicilian pizza out there don't get much respect. They're bready and lack the crisp tactile pleasures of their thin Napolitean cousins.

This one's different. And way ahead of the pack. This crust has so much of the wispy lightness of brioche that you could top it with a rich foie gras terrine and feel like you're in Alsace. In fact, this crust is mostly air, trapped by a million strands of brittle microthin and ultracrisp dough. (How they support the toppings is quite an engineering feat.) Bite down and these million wisps break simultaneously; the effect is stunning -- the crust suddenly and rapidly dissolves into a puff of warm air. It's a magical textural sensation beyond any (pizza) parlor slight of hand.

The toppings play a supporting role here, but they acquit themselves admirably. The garlicky tomato sauce is thicker and more homey, a good change from the bright plummy ones that I've enjoyed elsewhere. I think there's also a mild hint of heat in it too, but I'm not positive, because I doctored mine with chilli flakes. The mozzarella is above par, and the they use a good and savory herb flecked sausage. Mushrooms are good too with their slight woodsy fragrance. Next stop -- tomato and basil.

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