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Restaurants & Bars 1

Papilles - New in Hollywood

lil mikey | Jan 8, 201201:51 PM

There’s no printed menu, it’s a 3-course pre fixe consisting of two choices for each course. And the menu changes every 4-6 days. It’s $25 per person. There are no a la carte options except sometimes an add-on course.

Similarly, the wine “list” is shared with the diners by simply pointing to all the wines on shelves against the far wall. Guests are invited to go over and browse the wall for various wines and beers.

As the menu changes often, the following is simply to show the type of dishes as opposed to what might be offered any other time.

The atmosphere is very homey. There is nothing separating the kitchen from the dining area: no wall, no glass, nothing. The kitchen is part of the same room. There’s an island casually separating it, but you’re basically in the same space. But it’s small. Reservations are strongly suggested.

Bread service is fresh and warm, and refilled if desired.

As an add-on we ordered the starter of a torchon of foie gras, served with a small root vegetable salad. The fois gras was so decadent that it melted on the tongue. And the portion was quite ample for the two of us. The root salad had wafer-thin slices of beets and persimmon, along with arugula topped with a lemony dressing.

For the first course, we had the choice of carrot soup or root salad, but as we’d had the root salad with the fois gras, they substituted house-cured halibut with crème fraiche and tiny black caviar. The carrot soup was extremely smooth and velvety in texture, with a rich carrot flavor. On top was a dollop of ginger citrus sabayon, which broke up the carrot flavor nicely.

The house smoked halibut was very smoky tasting, but I would have preferred the slices to be a little larger and less firm. This was a substitution, but I would skip it if offered again.

The main courses were tenderloin of veal and local (white) sea bass. The veal was cooked perfectly and served with a light hollandaise sauce. Alongside were boiled baby turnips, large (1/2 inch diameter) leek slices and twice fried baby potatoes. This was a delightful combination.

The sea bass was moist, flaky and topped with a maltaise (hollandaise with citrus) sauce. Alongside were baby boiled potatoes and kale over a sunchoke puree. The sunchoke base added a delicious earthiness to the other ingredients, and was a nice counterpunch to the sauce served over the fish.

For the third course, we had a very eggy-tasting lemon tart served with a foam alongside. The crust was buttery and crumbled exactly like I wanted it.

The second choice for the third course was a pungent washed sheep’s cheese served with very fresh tasting Spanish almonds and sliced figs.

In general, this was a very reasonably priced meal. The quality of ingredients was very high, and the execution was terrific.

Service was helpful and gracious, and the chef came over afterward to say hello... a trek of about 50 feet. Their target audience is the local community, and I think it’s a good addition. I expect they can also attract some other business as the whole Hollywood and Vine area is experiencing massive growth.

6221 Franklin Avenue (at Argyle)

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