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Restaurants & Bars

Yet more Lupa praise

Steven Stern | May 2, 200006:20 PM     9

Like this place needs any more attention, but one thing I wanted to mention. The pasta with spicy cauliflower. Some kind of short tubular pasta I've never heard of. Almost mushy cauliflower, lots of hot pepper. Big crunchy bread crumbs, a branch of rosemary, subliminal strips of some kind of green (chard? escarole?) weaved through. Some kind of soft cheese holding it all together, possibly, just a little. That's it. It was one of the most un-restaurant-like things I've ever had in a restaurant; just like what I would cook for myself, but much, much better. Totally haimish and totally exciting, it was the best single plate of food I've had in a while.

Everything else was great too--sardines, prosciutto, oxtail, saltimbocca. Desserts particularly: mascarpone gelato with sour cherries, and licorice panna cotta with grappa--subtle and groovy. It was all about the cauliflower for me, though.

Monday evening, early (6-ish): no waiting at all.

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