So what if they were out of Chimay -the maredsous ale was plenty gutsy- or that the Normandy mussels,swimming in a richly saline broth, were a tad too tender. It didn't matter. This whole chilly winter I'd been into fantasies of buzzing brasseries and platters of choucroute garnie and fat Belgian fries. Luka's, located in the culinary neverland of Broadway and West Grand in Oakland,came as close to my fantasy as anyplace in the Bay Area. Jammed on Saturday night with hipsters of all ages, it has a comfort food menu that I plan to go through plate by plate.