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Restaurants & Bars

locanda locatelli


Restaurants & Bars 4

locanda locatelli

nick henry | Feb 27, 2002 09:25 AM



went on saturday night to georgio locatelli's new london restaurant. and i cannot stop thinking about the food, the decor, the service, the bill. everything was superb.

the restaurant is in the churchill hotel on portman square. but you would never know. it has been fitted out beautifully with delicate neutral colours and fabrics and has a feeling of class elegance and refinement that is almost peerless. i cannot think of a restaurant that can match it for those characteristics.

i started with veal shank ravioli which was one of the most sumptuous melt in your mouth dishes i have ever eaten. my only regret is that i did not order it as a main course so i could have a bigger portion.

main course was a perfectly cooked loin of beef which was exquisite.

desserts are far more daring than expected and i plumped for a frozen gingerbread mousse that was excellent but i was sorely tempted to try the tiramisu to see how the master makes it. maybe next time.

service was exemplary. friendly, but not over familiar. i never had to fill a glass with wine or water, yet never did i feel as though the glasses were being overfilled or refilled too quickly which is a difficult thing to get right, especially in the first week of a new restaurant.

the wine list contains plenty of choice at £25 and below, my only criticism is that it does not have any helpful annotations which would be useful in making decisions which involve the more obscure italian wines.

finally the price, a meal for 2 including wine and service came to £100 which i think is fantastic value for the quality of food, service and ambiance.

i want to go again.

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