We had a number of good traditional-style Czech meals in Prague last week, but one restaurant far outshone the others: V Zátiší. There are three dining rooms, all different and all beautiful - check out especially the little back room with one wall composed entirely of books (and not the way you think)! The service was friendly and impeccable. And the food was superb - we had a warm chanterelle mushroom salad and crisp, delicate quail on a bed of barley risotto to start, followed by pan-seared pike-perch and tender roasted loin of venison. Each of the main courses was prepared following their "delights of two" approach - that is, after searing or roasting, the fish/meat was presented in two portions, each with different accompaniment and sauce. Half the venison was served with a cabbage slaw and a gingerbread sauce, the other half with stewed fruits and a plum sauce. Similarly, one piece of the fish came with potato puree and a riesling sauce, the other with carrot terrine and watercress sauce. All were excellent, and the portions very reasonable, not overwhelming.
For dessert, a classic chocolate mousse was rich, creamy and perfect.
Their pricing system is a bit odd - you must order a minimum of two courses, and any two (starter and main, or main and dessert) are 890 Kr. (about US$50). Each additional course is 100 Kr (~$6). They also offer wine pairings at a similar flat rate (we ordered a bottle of late-harvest Frankovka from Moravia instead, as we like red wine with nearly everything).
All in all it was a delightful evening, one of those meals where you walk out of the restaurant just floating, feeling that all's well with the world.