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Restaurants & Bars 4

Another great meal at Beso

David Edelstein | Feb 17, 200109:22 PM

It's real easy to get a table at Beso on a Saturday night, and I don't want that to change. On the other hand, I want the place to be around forever. So I commend it to those who've never indulged. Tonight, I had plantain-crusted oysters (so briny-squirty that they made me forget about the way I always insist on eating them, raw), delightful mushroom quinoa tamales, and a gorgeous mound of salmon on a sweet puree of root vegetables with a moat of spicy corn sauce. The wife had beautiful leg of lamb on a mound of mashed purple potatoes. The chef here does magical things with root vegetables, including light, greaseless better-than-onion rings. My three-year-old scarfed down everything that was offered--it's haute cuisine even a tot can adore.

I had a glass of superb Argentinian syrah, but the excellent sangria is probably more appropriate with this food. There's also an odd but good range of bottled beers (red tail, Sam Smith Oatmeal Stout, Orval, Lindemann's...).

As I said, I don't want to fight my way into this place, but I'd like to celebrate my tenth year in Park Slope there in six years. So give it a try if you haven't.

David Edelstein
Brownstone Brooklyn

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