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Globefish Sushi and Izakaya, Calgary


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Globefish Sushi and Izakaya, Calgary

John Manzo | Apr 7, 2006 06:14 PM

Three days ago, Globefish Sushi and Izakaya opened in the space vacated by Saigon Broadway, 326 14 St NW. This space has the appearance of a former sales centre for a condo project (and it's not far from Kensington Mews, so who knows) with a too-low ceiling and no surfeit of space in its interior, but Globefish has made use of the space that is there- it is very different from its former occupant, with the sushi bar taking up perhaps a third of the room. Come early- I arrived a little before noon and by the time I left (around 12:20) the place was almost full. Mirrored walls and ceiling make the place look more spacious than it is.

But so what about space and decor, I came for the food. The lunch menu is all sushi; dinner is more interesting as I'll note below. From what I could tell the laminated lunch menu features nothing but maki- there was not even one of those checklists for nigiri or sashimi. I was promised that those are available, but the laminated menu has little room as the "special" rolls are all accompanied by pictures- very appetizing ones, but they should perhaps redesign the menu to include the non-maki that some might prefer.

I always eschew "combo" sushi because I'm invariably stuck with something I cannot stand (like surf clam or raw salmon) or am otherwise uninterested in (especially Cali rolls), but these are good deals here- three spicy rolls (cali, tuna and salmon) make up a "flames combo" for only 12.95, for example. Anyway, I ordered an avocado maki and an interesting sounding giant special roll called a "Crazy Buster" roll.

The avocado was fine, $4.95 for a decent-sized 6-piece roll with very good rice, a happy sign for me. Nothing to write home about, but the fact that the rice was toothsome and that, unlike just about every sushi place in Calgary, it was delivered FAST to me, boded well.

Okay. The Crazy Buster ($12.95) arrives. Eight large pieces a la Towa. And it was AMAZING. Its centre is very lightly seared "spicy tuna," wrapped with rice, wrapped with raw tuna, the dusted with little pieces of green onion tempura, very crispy, finished with "unagi sauce" and an incredible spicy sauce- not mayo based, not straight chili sauce, perfect heat. I'm going out on a limb when I say this but I have to say it: This was (perhaps) the tastiest version of a spicy tuna roll I have ever had. Ever. And that includes the moment I saw God and Buddha and Allah all sitting together watching the Amazing Race after I bit into a spicy tuna roll at Yoshi on Denman in Vancouver. I have NEVER had tuna this melt-in-my mouth luscious- it's somewhere between toro and white, and I moaned with every bite.

So you can say I liked it.

I took a gander at the dinner menu when the "Izakaya" label is more apt, but if you're looking for Hapa or Guu in Calgary, keep looking. The non-sushi part of the dinner menu is analogous to what's on offer at Kyoto 17: Chili Tofu, Chix Karaage, Raw and Baked (w/ miso-mayo sauce) Oysters, Agedashi and Spicy Agedashi (sounds good!) Tofu, the usual Udon and Teriyaki, usual Tempura this and that but for the addition of Tempura Lobster ($15.95, I'd try that one).

One really interesting note on the bev menu: 16 different sakes.

SO I loved what I had at Globefish, no question, and am looking forward to trying some more of their creative-sounding rolls, especially the "Vegetable Fantasy": asparagus, yam tempura, sundried tomato, avocado, daikon, carrot and cuke. It might work, might not, but I want to give this place a few more chances.
lunch is 11-2:30 M-F, dinner 5-10 7 nights a week. 403-521-0222.

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