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Restaurants & Bars 4

Ebisu: $38 Omakase sashimi (good for neophytes)

small h | Feb 25, 200804:15 PM

As a person who is 1) kind of poor and 2) kind of nervous, I'd been hesitant to waltz into a serious sushi place (read: Yasuda or Ushi Wakamaru), plant myself at the sushi bar and go the omakase route. I'm not the only one who thinks I've no business being there...


But I love sashimi, and I love surprises. So I was thrilled on Saturday to see that Ebisu on E. 9th offered the option of a sashimi omakase for the very reasonable price of $38. It came all at once, on one plate. It did not take into account my personal taste (no one asked). So maybe it's not for the purist. But it was an artfully presented assortment of about 10 different varieties of fish, some of which thrilled me (red snapper, jack mackerel, giant clam), some of which pleased me (uni, salmon), and some of which simply made me grateful I hadn't ordered it by the piece (medium fatty tuna, which was stringy and tough). I was a little alarmed to see a skewered fish head with spine and tail attached languishing at one end of the platter, but I treated it like the decorative element I hope it was, and no one mocked me for that.

And if anyone sees "red miso soup with short-necked clam" on a menu and says, ooh, what exotic beast is this, this short-necked clam? It's a little neck clam. Lost in translation. Not that it wasn't a good soup or anything.

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