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Dinner at Orso

Cliff | Apr 16, 2002 03:31 PM

This past Saturday five of us ate a late, post-theater ("Ricky Jay: On the Stem") dinner at Orso. My review is hampered by the fact that there were two duplications of entrees, thus less variety. The room is pleasant enough, and service was quite friendly. Shortly after we arrived at 10:15 a new wave of arrivals hit the place, including many actors from the surrounding theaters (Frank Langella, etc.). Entrees included roasted Chilean sea bass that was absolutely succulent, although I was sad to see it offered (no, I didn't order it, but two in our party did) because of the reported damage to the species by overfishing. Calf's liver and onions was a somewhat different take on the standard, with a large portion of bite-sized, thin pieces of liver and threads of onion sauteed together into a single, piled up serving. The liver was not overcooked, but I'll still take mine broiled with a bit of balsamic, onions and a rasher of crisp bacon as an accompaniment. The third dish was ravioli stuffed with a mixture of crab and artichoke, in a brown-butter/sage sauce. I'm told it was delicious. Dessert was underwhelming -- "vanilla rice pudding with a compote of dried cherries" -- technically a correct description but underwhelmingly boring, lacking texture and even rice, for that matter. The meal was pleasant, nothing offended, we might go back, but we might also ask other hounds for their favorites on the menu prior to returning.

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